How To Buy Electronics On eBay (Cheap and Safe) Part 2

In my last post I introduced you to shopping safely and cheaply on eBay (which basically meant reading everything carefully and working smart with their search engine). Now with that groundwork over, here’s how to buy the tools and parts you need to work with electronics (and Arduinos) on eBay, including my own experience on what works and what doesn’t.

By the way, the list I’m working off of is taken from an excellent reference on building with microcontrollers, “Physical Computing”, by O’Sullivan and Igoe. While I’m still reading my way through it, it’s been a great introduction to using devices that let the microcontroller ‘sense’ the world. And although the book was written just before the Arduino became popular (and so the examples use other devices), the information adapts well to the Arduino, plus it’s a great introduction to electronics.

That said, here’s what I’ve found with eBay and parts, starting with tools:

Tools

Soldering Iron. I’ve used a cheap Radio Shack model for years, but have since switched over to a eBay version I found that I like a lot. Around $10, it’s an with a dial on the side. But if you plan to get into it in a big way, are considered quite good online; however a simple ‘pencil’ style iron will get you started. By the way, if you order one, order a with sponge at the same time; leaving your iron resting on anything else will soon give you (or your desk) a nasty burn.

Wire stripper or cutters. If you’re careful, a knife against the wire will do the job of removing insulation. But if not, there’s two kinds of wires stripper/cutters I’ve bought and used successfully – manual strippers (where you match the wire to the proper hole and pull) and automatic strippers (where you just insert and strip – quite cool, and easy to use). You can get on eBay via this link.

Multimeter. I’ve already blogged about buying a good multimeter (and which I’m quite happy with). However, if you don’t need all the bells and whistles, or are on a budget, you can get a super-cheap one that works fine for under $5 – just search on the models. Of course, don’t say I didn’t warn you when you want to upgrade to more features…

By the way, if you’re reading the shopping list that’s in “Physical Computing”, you’ll notice I left a lot of tools out, specifically a vise/third hand jig, glue gun, solder, needle-nose pliers, screwdrivers, and a toolbox. In my experience, you’ll find all these very cheap locally, cheaper than on eBay. For example, if you live near a Princess Auto (which Victoria BC has recently been blessed with), keep an eye on sales for many of these tools, as well as Canadian Tire. Recently, I picked up a metal vise for just over $8, and a hands-free jig for $2.50, both on sale at Princess. They are also fantastic for power tools, for example if you want to buy a hand drill, or a Dremel-style small drill for circuit board work.

That’s some of the tools for starting in electronics – now how about parts?

Electronic Components

Miscellaneous components. Resistors, capacitors, diodes, transistors, and so on. For components like this, there’s two ways to stock up: Buy individual packets of items (like 2.2k resistors, 22k resistors, etc.) or look for a group of components. For that, just add the word ‘lot’ to your search on eBay, like resistor lot/capacitor lot/diode lot/transistor lot (or use for all four together!) If you’re going the individual route, two companies I’m happy with are are and – even when I search for the lowest prices on parts, it seems 9 times out of 10 I end up placing an order with one of these two. Speedy, professional, and I haven’t had a problem yet. Start small, and once you’re happy, make regular orders to build up your stock.

Power supply. The Arduino plug is a female 2.1mm plug with center positive, so you want a power supply to fit that (as explained on their site). The modular ones (nicknamed “wall warts”) are handy for powering your Arduino when it’s not plugged in to the computer, but more importantly, for powering all the devices you’ve connected to it. For example, I have a for my motors. You need a beefy power supply for motors, and 2 amps means the motors have enough to run on (and gives me one less thing to wonder about when things don’t work!) 5v is what the Arduino uses, but the designers recommend 9v or 12v for external power, depending on what you’re doing with it.

Power connectors. Like my using Molex connectors for my stepper motors, a good connector can make it a lot easier to plug and unplug. I recommend checking eBay for “” – while not always needed, if you use an Arduino motor shield (which can use a separate power supply), your life will a lot simpler if you use a connector to bring the power in (I take two wires from the connector to the screw terminals of the board).

Headers. These little parts are the connectors found on the Arduino – male and female, and they make it convenient to plug in things. I recommend buying a selection of both , as well as the cables that fit in them (called ). Using these wires, you can breadboard from the Arduino to test out devices. One warning: While the headers may not be necessary right away, you’ll end up using lots and lots of jumper wires right off – so consider ordering a couple packs ASAP (and maybe one pack of the for times the gender of the header pins is reversed).

Shrink wrap tubing. I’ve found it a handy thing to buy on eBay, and quite cheap. Get a 2mm-3mm thickness of , and any color you want. You can usually get 3 feet or so for around a dollar. I just use a cheap cigarette lighter to heat the wrap and shrink it, and the result looks better to me than electrical tape – but of course, you may prefer the latter.

Breadboard. You plug a wire in, and connect it to the Arduino. These things are great for hooking up circuits. And while I’m not a fan of the cheap ones I’ve bought on eBay, you may find a better selection. If you do search online, I recommend you look for the quality , and get ones in shrink wrap, with terminals and a back plane – not only do they look better, but they are likely to be more professionally made. And while a bit more than the cheaper ones, they are still less expensive than most anything you’ll buy locally.

USB stuff. The Arduino has a port called an A socket, identical to most printers. To avoid plugging and unplugging, I’ve bought many a . I leave them plugged into the microcontroller, since a $1 cable’s wear and tear suits me better than an Arduino’s connector breaking! As well, I’d recommend a , so your computer’s USB is somewhat separated electrically from the Arduino “just in case” – get one with its own power supply, and you might even be able to run a few devices without using a wall wart.

Miscellaneous. It seems every tutorial I read ends up requiring something I’ll buy on eBay. – if you order in advance and buy extra, you’ll start amassing a small pile of stuff, which means your next project may have the parts all ready to go!

That covers just some of the tools and parts you’ll need – but there’s more. Turn in shortly for the third (and final) part, where I discuss the best Arduino deals on eBay!

How To Buy Electronics On eBay – Cheap AND Safe

I shop local when I can – but eBay frequently. Here in Victoria (BC, Canada) it’s hard to come by inexpensive electronics, especially Arduinos. Vancouver is just a ferry ride away, but I’m not into traveling for shopping – so it should come as no surprise I rely on eBay heavily for my components and electronics tools (who am I kidding – not just for them, but almost anything, from to to really nice ).

eBay however, can be an issue for a first timer – so here’s what I’ve picked up in the last decade so your every online shopping ‘trip’ is safe and straightforward – and a few tips for those times it isn’t…

  • Join eBay ASAP. If you’re not a member, start there – it’s free and most importantly, it’s necessary in order to buy. There is a mind-numbing wealth of info to do this online, much of it on eBay’s own site (or just search on “how to shop ebay”), so I won’t cover it again here.
  • Get Paypal. Technically, you can use your credit card at the PayPal link on any auction and pay that way, but I like Paypal for a lot of other uses – and you should too. The Personal account is the starting point: It’s fine for the occasional shopping on eBay, but eventually you will want a Premier or Business account (good news – you can have the Personal and one other account for those times you want to save a service charge or two). A PayPal account is the micro-payment solution they were looking for in the 1990s, and it’s the “gold standard” online for small payment transactions. It’s also especially useful if you want to sell things someday, be it on eBay or elsewhere.
  • Learn to search right. Once in eBay, much of what you’ll find is related to how well you search. For example, if you type in “Arduino” you’ll find a wealth of topics. But you can pay a premium for that – so search for the Arduino part first, and use the new words you’ve picked up in that search to then find the same part w/o “Arduino” in the title. As an example, I just searched on “” versus “” – the lowest “Buy it now” price for each is $3.17 versus $2.44, which is about 30% more for searching with “Arduino”! This tip alone will save you quite a bit over time, since sellers understand Arduino users are more often than not hobbyists – and so willing to pay a bit more for their hobby.
  • Take it seriously. While some people view eBay as a fun online store to browse, I like to think of it as a supplier of parts (OK, not all the time!) I have a separate User ID for shopping (to avoid mixing details of my shopping with my selling), and I keep track of the items coming in, leaving them quality feedback and in turn asking for it (feedback is the social ‘currency’ of eBay, if you will). It’s also important to take care to handle problems professionally. If you leave negative feedback, make it specific and to the crux of the problem, but make sure you try your best to contact the company first, since most are very eager to resolve things amicable. For example, when two out of ten of the linear bearings in an order were the wrong size, it just took a quick (and polite) email, and they shipped out two new ones at no charge. Problem solved – unless I had gotten mad and left negative feedback first. Keep emotions out of it, and you’ll likely have few problems – and for the rest, eBay has a resolution center to handle that, which likely means you’re protected if you used PayPal to pay (remember my tip on PayPal!)
  • Start small. Risk $5, not $50. Order just a few things at first and try out the whole bid/win/pay/ship/receive/buy again loop slowly. Pay attention to the ratings on the seller for each auction (their feedback), and let that guide your shopping. You can also click through the Seller’s User ID link and look at the comments left from buyers, as well as frequently what items were sold. I use this not only to see where the seller has problems (for example, are they consistently selling shoddy products), but more importantly, have they sold that particular item before, and how did THOSE buyers feel? If you see an unusually low price, and the seller has just started selling that product, you might want to wait awhile – or consider a slightly higher price elsewhere.
  • Read the auction carefully! You are agreeing to the terms, and have no one to blame if there are charges hidden in the text. For example, I once had my cable modem go belly up, and needed a replacement quick. At one auction, the price was good, so I bid. However, what I thought was a repeat of the shipping price ($5) in the auction listing was actually a second handling charge, and they got away with it – $10 instead of $5 on a $10 purchase! If I hadn’t been in a hurry and needed the modem, maybe I wouldn’t have been caught. Certainly, I’d never deal with them again. And while it is possible to have them cancel the auction afterwards (as a seller, I actually did this at a customer’s request once), you don’t want to get a reputation as a buyer who changes their mind.
  • Remember eBay is not everything. For example, I will not buy electronic breadboards on eBay any more, after buying a couple that were very loose in the contacts. Likewise, I won’t buy a parachute(!), large capacity MicroSD cards (which are often sold as larger than they are) or very heavy items (the shipping is murder, unless you are fortunate to be in the same town, AND the auction allows local pickup in lieu of shipping). As well, there are times the local price is just too good, or Amazon is selling it cheaper, or something else, so you’ll just use them instead.
  • Finally, be loyal. As you can imagine, this research can get time consuming – so when you have a successful transaction, bookmark the seller, and you’ll likely find you come back to them often. After all, a few cents saved means little if you need twenty minute’s research every time you want to shop from a new company!

I’ve used eBay both as a buyer and seller for over a decade, and find it a great place to shop. Give it a try, and who knows – you might end up buying an extra Arduino or two ‘cuz the prices are so good!

Part 2 covers parts every electronics wiz will need to buy, as well as my picks for buying online components and tools at bargain prices – read it here. As for Arduino-related parts, I discuss them in part 3.

Oh My, How To Buy / A Raspberry Pi / From Canada

OK, it’s a bit of whimsy in the title here (I was aiming for a Haiku), but I’ve just ordered my impossible-to-get Raspberry Pi, so you’ll have to excuse me. If you’re in Canada, then here’s the steps to order yours ASAP as well. And if it doesn’t seem urgent to you (mine’s back ordered till August 1), then just remember: All those thousands and thousands of other people are ordering and getting in line ahead of you while you wait!

So, here’s how I did it (start from step 4 if you’re in a hurry):

  1. Visited the American company handling it (Element14/Newark.com), at their US headquarters, and signed up for their “Register your interest NOW!” list:

    http://downloads.element14.com/raspberryPi2.html

  2. Waited until they sent me an email – unfortunately, it was all in HTML (not text) so it took me a few emails from them to realize it wasn’t a garbled email, it was a sales message.
  3. Followed the link to their US site, registered, ordered, then went through a huge mess trying to find international shipping, and gave up.
  4. At that point, I realized something was wrong, searched the Canadian site for the Raspberry (which kept sending me to the US signup page), and then decided to give Great Auntie Google a try. A quick search later, and I found the Canadian equivalent of the US sales page:

    http://canada.newark.com/raspberry-pi/raspbrry-pcba/dp/83T1943?Ntt=Raspbrry-pcba  

  5. From there, I was able to register an account (you need a Canadian registry on the Canadian site, US registering won’t work), placed the order, and sat back to wait until August.

$52.64 total paid out for my Raspberry Pi, taxes and shipping included.

Obviously, you will have an easier time of it than me if you simply follow the Canadian link and register a Canadian account!

By the by, there are a few more details to note when ordering:

  • I picked UPS for shipping. Although one of the other shipping options may be cheaper, I decided $12 flat for UPS was fine (and fast). And although I usually dislike UPS and their inflated (and hidden) brokerage fees, a quick search online showed me that people ordering from Newark aren’t paying anything above the $12, so I went for it.
  • You can try to order more than one Pi, and the system may allow it, but beware: One person mentioned online they were emailed later about an order problem and had to redo it. So although it’s tempting, I’d advise against it, unless you want to move to the back of the line!
  • Be prepared to keep room on your credit card balance awhile. I immediately got a $1.01 charge from “PREMIER FARNELL CANADA”, which is the Newark/Element14 parent company. I presume this is a test to make sure the order can go through, but it means you’ll likely want to plan on keeping $55.00 or so available in there, at least until August.
  • Since you can bypass the notification page using this link, should you? I’d recommend not. Place the order but also sign up – and use the same email address when placing an order ‘just in case’. If nothing else, you’ll probably get a few vital messages over the next months, for example if they allow more than one order, or if they start shipping. It’s a small price to pay to stay in the loop.

So that’s about it – now wait until August. Actually, I expect the backlog will be cleared long before that and I’ll be enjoying some Raspberry Pi over the summer. Even if not though, 4-1/2 months may seem a long time now – but it will come soon enough – So order yours ASAP!

So What Exactly IS An Arduino – And Where Do I Get ‘Uno’ (One)?

You’ve heard about it – but what REALLY is an Arduino, and what do you use it for?

What an Arduino is depends on who’s asking:

  • If you’re a hobbyist you might want to know how easy is it to use to do what you want.
  • If you’re an artist, maybe you’re curious about making your latest art project ‘active’, and need to understand the Arduino because that’s a popular way to do it.
  • And if you’re a current Arduino user, you question is more like ‘what isn’t an Arduino?’ since it is so versatile!

In an nutshell, an Arduino is like a computer you can hook electronics up to – and not just modules you buy completely made up and ready to go (which they have many of, called ); it’s also great for hooking up little electronics parts.

For instance, say I have a resistor and a switch (as shown on this page) – now I can hook up my Arduino like this:

And when I press the switch, the Arduino can notice it and do ‘something’ – and that something is limited only by my imagination (almost), along with enough parts, of course. For example, basic Arduinos come with a built in LED, so a program could very easily detect my switch, and flash the LED when I pressed it. But because that is done in programming code, I can easily change what that switch does with the LED. For instance,

  • When I press the switch it turns on, and when I release it, it turns off. Pretty simple.
  • How about one press turns it off, and another turns it on? Again, simple.
  • How about the LED flashes slowly, and every time I press the button it flashes faster and faster? Now you’re on to something interesting.
  • Or, what if you program a little ‘munchkin’ inside the Arduino, and now when you press the button, it reacts like you’re patting it – a quick press makes it flash ‘angry’ (fast but long bright flashes, for example), and when you press slowly it ‘soothes’ it (slower flashes). No real munchkin of course – just software programmed to react to how long you hold the button down.

So with only a few lines of code you have programmed the Arduino and a switch to look ‘alive’. Now you can see why it’s so popular with artists. Using motors and switches and a device like an Arduino, they can give ‘life’ to their art, having it interact with viewers. Here’s a video of an art project turning pieces of wood by motors to reflect different amounts of light – thereby acting as a ‘mirror’ showing a camera image:

Of course, this is a very popular use for Arduinos, controlling stepper motors (motors that can be very precisely turned under Arduino control). I’m using a similar thing for my Braille project, where two stepper motors are run this way for precise positioning.

But another very popular use for Arduinos is light control. Just as the example I gave here used a single LED to imitate life, a cluster of LEDs can be animated with the Arduino. For example, here is a project where an series of lights (LEDs) are used to create a truly beautiful dsplay:

Like the switch example, connecting an Arduino up to LEDs is less complex than using a whole computer for a project; yet, at , it is a computer that can do quite a bit despite its small size.

Finally, there is one more thing the Arduino is good for, at least in my case – and that’s a . All my life I’ve wanted to wire resistors and capacitors and all those other things together to do neat stuff. But, besides being expensive, all I could see in my future was burned resistors and acrid smoke! However, with the Arduino, there is a huge wealth of information online, and it’s very easy to wire a circuit up, test it, and gain experience in electronics. For hobbyists, it is truly a great tool to learn electronics with.

So I hope I’ve convinced you the Arduino is the way to go. If you’re a beginner, consider a kit with the Arduino Uno (the most popular version currently), and a generous supply of parts like switches, motors, resistors and such so you can play around with it. Check the listings below, and don’t forget to visit a forum or two, or search for specific projects using the Arduino. Who knows, you may find the beginning of a great new hobby!

Arduino vs Arduino Mega – Which To Use?

You may not often have a project that pushes the limits, but sometime the regular Arduino Uno seems a bit, well, cramped. Maybe you’re having trouble finding a spare pin to connect to, or memory just seems to be short all the time. What to do? Let’s look at the pros and cons of the two devices.


Obviously, pins are the first thing you’d see. The Ardunio Uno has 20 I/O pins, while the Mega has 70. Whether you need a lot of analog pins (UNO=6 Mega=16), or digital (all pins can be digital of course on both pins). There’s ways around it of course; for example, if you need a lot of switches you can use the 4021 ICs to multiplex, using only 3 pins of either Arduino for 8/16/24/etc switches (here’s a good article on wiring that up), but if you don’t want to fuss with extra addon circuitry, the Mega is better.

Memory is different, but that’s no surprise: 32 KB flash memory (program storage), 2 KB SRAM (scratchpad/working memory), and 1 KB EEPROM (permanent variable storage), versus 256 KB flash, 8 KB SRAM, and 4 KB EEPROM.

Hardware vs Software is another area of difference. The Mega has four hardware serial ports, which means maximum speed if you need a second or third (or fourth) port. On the Uno, you can do similarly using the NewSoftSerial library; however, software is slower, and if your program is pushing the limits, you may find a hardware serial port more useful. For example, the Braille Device I’m working on benefits from a hardware serial for communication to the computer; using it, I can still use the original serial port for debugging, and another new port for communications. Being hardware, it interferes with my software loops much less.

Another difference is PWM (Pulse Width Modulation). It’s not ideal to run a motor with a varying voltage, so most controllers use PWM to fake a varied voltage. By turning the power on and off very rapidly, the average power to the motor goes up or down, changing its speed without varying the voltage (that is, except for either full on or completely off). PWM can be faked in software, but it’s extra code you don’t need to if you have the Mega, with 14 PWM pins versus the Uno’s 6 pins.

So is the Mega the be-all and end-all? Well, it’s more expensive (about double if you buy original parts; 50% higher if you shop on eBay). The chip is also soldered in place, versus a socketed chip for most Unos. This may not seem a big issue, but the memory can only handle 10,000 writes. And while 10,000 compiles/uploads may seem like a lot, once you reach it, the chip AND board is toast. With a socket, you just replace the chip.

Finally, the Mega is less common. Software on it is non-standard since most everyone works with the Uno. While the compiler takes care of many of the differences, you’re obviously working with a different device and coding for it.

Ultimately, if you’re trying to decide, I’d recommend this: Start with the Uno. There is more code, more help online, more details on how to work it. If you reach your limits (hardware, memory space, etc), move on up to the Mega. By then, however, you’ll be comfortable with the code you’re writing, and more aware of the areas that need fixing or adjusting.